Another Civil War coffee story
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| Southern women (circa 1861) |
The coffee supply was among the various food items notably impacted by the blockade. One of the interesting aspects of this coffee shortage, however, were the alternatives Southern families used in their quest for the "perfect cup" of near-coffee.
Or as they called it: "Lincoln Coffee".
Even local newspapers took up valuable print space to share coffee substitute recipes submitted by readers. On October 16, 1861, the Georgia Journal and Messenger (Macon, GA) published an article titled "Domestic Coffee—'Recipes for the Times". Within it, three intriguing—and occasionally humorous—recipes were offered.
The first contributor elevated his recipe’s status by prefacing it with a nod to its historical merit:
"In good faith to all economical housekeepers...published...a recipe for making ‘good coffee’ (as a substitute for the foreign article) from a production to be found on every plantation: the sweet potato.
The idea is by no means new, but it may not be known to many who have not experienced times like the present—when economy and retrenchment were necessary. It has been used for many years...by the best housekeepers in the state. There are those amongst us who have not yet forgotten Mrs. L., a noted hotel keeper of Hancock County, who earned great credit from travelers for her ‘good coffee,’ while using nothing but the article spoken of—properly prepared." [1]
The thoroughness of his instructions reflected his confidence in the recipe:
Peel sweet potatoes and slice them into pieces ¼ to ½ an inch thick. Cut these slices into strips, and then into squares, ensuring they are uniformly sized.
Dry the pieces in the sun for three days, bringing them indoors each night to prevent spoilage.
Once dried, store them in a bag for long-term use.
To make coffee, roast the squares to a dark brown (being careful not to burn them), grind them, and prepare as you would regular coffee.
The contributor concluded by proclaiming: "I am using it daily and find it equal to the best old Java." —W.S., Jr. [1]
Another submission, however, appears to have been penned with tongue firmly in cheek. Taking a jab at a recipe published by a rival newspaper, the Macon Telegraph, the donor sarcastically introduced his alternative:
“I have also noticed a recipe in the Macon Telegraph of the 26th of last month (which probably represents the taste from whence it emanates). Please also submit it to the attention of lady housekeepers, and any one who chooses can test the difference between that of ‘W.S.’ and ‘Telegraph’ coffee.” [1]
He titled it: "Recipes for the Times—To Make Coffee."
The satirical recipe read: “Take tan bark, three parts; three old cigar stumps; add a quart of water, mix well, and boil fifteen minutes in a dirty coffee pot. The best judges cannot tell it from the finest Mocha.” [1]
While this "recipe" likely induced more laughter than imitation, the final contribution offered a genuinely palatable alternative. Using okra seeds—a crop associated with Southern Louisiana—the writer extolled its virtues:
"I wish to introduce okra coffee as the best substitute yet offered. Take the dry seed, parch, grind, and prepare it as you would any other. You will have an excellent coffee, much like our Rio coffee in smell and taste. Let everyone try it, prove it, and cultivate this great plant for our own use. I believe it to be a much healthier coffee than the kinds we have accustomed ourselves to using." [1]
To this, the newspaper editor added a note: “The [current supply of the] product recommended in the article [okra] is insufficient for general use, but it might become so, if found to meet the taste of the people.” [1]
Of all these recipes, okra coffee stood out as the most pleasant surprise. Many Southerners found it to be an excellent substitute, even giving it the elegant nickname, “ambrette.”
In the face of scarcity, Southern ingenuity turned necessity into innovation. From rye, wheat, corn, sweet potatoes, beans to groundnuts, chestnuts, chiccory, ochre, sorghum, and other grains and seeds, the Confederate quest for coffee substitutes was a testament to resilience and creativity. Yet, as Richmond resident Sallie Brock Putnam so poignantly reflected years after the war, no substitute could truly capture the essence of the “bean of Araby” [real coffee]. In her words, “there was nothing coffee but coffee.” [2]
Although many of these newspaper articles, diaries, and reminiscences mention the scarcity of real coffee and the use of a wide variety of substitutes, Michael C. Hardy's new research offers a more nuanced perspective on this narrative. In his book, Feeding the Army of Northern Virginia, Hardy analyzed over 200 letters and uncovered conclusions that challenge the prevailing belief that all Confederates were cut off from imported coffee throughout the war. According to his findings, this assumption is overly generalized and not entirely accurate. Notably, Hardy observed that in the 200 letters and diary sets he studied, Confederate soldiers in the Army of Northern Virginia never mentioned making coffee from chicory, burnt corn, peas, sweet potatoes, or other substitutes often associated with the era. This suggests that the shortages and the use of such substitutes may have been more common among civilians rather than soldiers—or perhaps it was a regional phenomenon. As Hardy notes, much more research is needed to fully understand the complexities of the Confederate coffee supply during the war. [3]
Perhaps - as with many aspects of society - the coffee supply during the war was subject to the divide between "the haves" and "the have-nots". Sallie Brock Putnam mentioned this disparity: "During the existence of the war, coffee was a luxury in which only the most wealthy could constantly indulge...and if disposed to indulge in extravagance at all, the people showed it only by occasional and costly indulgence in the luxurious beverage." [1]
There are millions of stories from the Irrepressible Conflict. These are just some of them.
Mac
If you enjoyed this topic, dive into more posts on my 'Coffee Chronicles' page to explore the quirky and essential role coffee played in the War Between the States.
Works Cited
[1] "Domestic Coffee - 'Recipes for the Times'". Georgia Journal and Messenger (Macon, GA) - October 16, 1861. p.3. Retrieved January 23, 2025 from Georgia Historic Newspapers, Digital Library, University of Georgia.
[2] "Extra Voices: Coffee". Civil War Monitor website - December 21, 2020. Retrieved April 5, 2025.
[3] Hardy, Michael C. (2025) Feeding Lee's Army of Nothern Virginia. El Dorado Hills, CA: Savas Beatie Publishing.
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